11-25 Painted tail fin and side covers; painted and installed pipes: 10hrs

Wet sanded plastic with 220 grit sand paper. Applied 2 primer coats, wet sanded with 360 grit sandpaper between each coat. Applied 4 coats of white lacquer, wet sanded with 600 grit sandpaper between each coat. Applied two coats of clear lacquer, wet sanded with 1000 grit between each coat.

Installed decals on tail fin and side covers. Applied two coats of clear lacquer. Installed on the bike. Looks awesome

Also, had the muffler brackets welded for new pipes; painted the frame after it was welded. Prepped and painted pipes with flat black high temp paint. Installed pipes with black high temp RTV to seal the pipes to flanges, cured for 24hrs

11-13-11 Cleaned, painted and installed gas tank. 40hrs.

Filled inside tank with 4 bottles of "the works" bathroom cleaner (phosphoric acid), and water. soaked for 4 days to eat out any rust. Rinsed and dried tank, fogged with wd40 (prevent rust from returning).

Dry sanded filler with 120 grit sand paper. Applied 2 primer coats, wet sanded with 360 grit sandpaper between each coat. Applied 4 coats of white lacquer, wet sanded with 600 grit sandpaper between each coat. Applied two coats of clear lacquer, wet sanded with 1000 grit between each coat.

Installing tank decals. watched you tube how to install decal (see links). Prepped tank with isopropyl alcohol. Applied 2 side decals and large red stripe decal. Applied two coats of clear lacquer

Installed rebuilt petcock and new gas cap/keys. Installed tank on bike

10/23/11 Ugh, just when I though I was done all the mechanicals and was ready for final cosmetics... The mounting bracket on the new pipe broke. The white specs you see is not metal, its road dirt

9-26-11 12hr Re-assembled bike, painted and installed pipes, new carbs, K&N filters, new front and left blinkers. Took bike for a ride. With the Spec II Racing stage I kit, the bike is very drivable but still has a great powerband from  5500 to 7500 RPMs. Its like the best of both worlds. glad I made the investment!

9-25-11 2 Hrs Installed new high out put coils from Spec II racing

9-25-11 10hrs Rebuild Clutch and reassembled bike. Installed new clutch plates and springs from Spec II. Also replaced the front sprocket to 16 tooth per recommendation of Spec II. While I was here I also replaced the seal on the shaft for the main sprocket. I lesson learned here is the placement of the main locking nut is critical or you will have an oil leak.

9-25-11 Rebuild Engine #2. 8hrs. Honed 64MM cylinders. Checked tolerances on piston clearances to .0015 and set timing with dial indicator to 2 degrees below TDC using the method described in the Yamaha manual. This timing setting was recommended by Spec II. Note the ported racing reeds

9-25 Modify ProX Pistons: 1hr: I used ProX RZ pistons. There is a tab on the piston that needs to be trimmed off so you run them on RD's  Got to HVCcylce to read the procedure. I cut my tab off using a dremmel tool and a cut off wheel

9-16 Try again and $1500 bucks later

9-16 Overall I did not like the carb/pipe set up it the 32MM flat side and the Bassani pipes. I had bought both used for $500 thinking I would save a few bucks. After the seizure I figured I would go with cast pistons and a matched setup of pipes, filters, carbs and hi output coils from Spec II. While I had the engine apart I also figured I would replace the clutch so I bought new pads and springs from Spec II. $1500 later this is what I have.

Stage I Kit:
K&N 2 into 1 filter
30 MM Mikuni's
Spec II pipes
16 tooth front sprocket
New manifold and cross over pipe

Plus
Hi output coils
New clutch plate and springs

8-25 Bike Seized Up

8-25 Bike Seized up. 15hrs  I was riding the bike on the highway at 60 MPH and it seized the left cylinder. After much investigation both at the shop that bored the cylinders and dialoging with the guys on USA 2strokers forum, I was able to properly diagnose the issue.

1. Wrong piston clearances: The cylinders were bored to fit stock cast aluminum pistons. The pistons installed were Wiseco FORGED aluminum pistons. Forged pistons expand more so a few thousands off on the clearances and you can have a seizure. in my opinion the bike shop should have known this when I brought the jugs and the over sized pistons to them, but ultimately it was problem because I did not check the clearances after I got the pistons and jugs back. Lesson learned: don't trust even a reputable bike/machine shop; check all factory/mfg recommended clearances.

2. Slightly Lean Carburetor jetting: I drove the bike for 300 miles without issue, but I was only driving stop sign to stop sign, not highway driving. When I took the bike on the highway at 60MPH the carb was operating in the main jet / jet needle range, and was slightly lean. Being slightly lean did not cause the bike to seize but it added HEAT to the equation. Heat + tight piston clearances = seizure

7-25 Registered Bike

7/24/11 5 hrs Registered the bike and took for a ride. Bike needs some carb tunining but is running pretty good. The bike also developed an oil leak, which I think is the shifting lever seal (the one I did not replaced)

6-12-11 6 hrs. Got the bike running and took it for a ride!!! Oiled and installed the air filters, installed points and plugs, adjusted the timing, troubleshot the the wiring (coil not plugged in all the way). wired in the handlebar switches, reinstalled the headlight, installed front fender, filled engine with oil, adjusted the chain, torqued bolts through out. Cleaned gas tank varnish with a gallon of carb cleaner I bought from NAPA, rebuilt the petcock including new seals, installed new gas lines, mixed three gallons of gas, installed new gas cap and keys.

Bike Started 3rd kick!! and ran great. Now time for fine tuning carbs and final touches after which comes the nice paint job

6-11 5hrs installed reeds, manifold and boost bottle using new parts I bought off of USA 2stroke forum. I decided not to use the boysen reeds due to the design. Install carbs and new fuel lines, clean filters.

6-5-11 2hrs - Installed the tail light. I assembled the rear fender, taillight assembly and lens then installed on the bike. I also installed the seat and tank just to see what it looked like. Really starting to look like a bike, Hopefully in about two weeks it will be running!

6-5-11 3hrs Worked on the seat. The foam was dry rotted so I had it repaired locally by a person who does boat upholstery. That piece came out good; they steamed the foam, removed the dry rot, and added a small thin soft layer of foam($20). I bought a new seat cover from HVC. Went installing I used small self tapping screws and fasteners to hold the cover in place because the small original clamps were weak or rusty. Over all the seat looked really good until I put on the safety strap. The strap caused the seat foam to compress and therefore made the seat look wrinkly. To correct the issue I will probably need to purchase new seat foam, seat pan and another cover (about $400). Because of the cost I am going to wait until I can find another seat. While not perfect, the seat is a big improvement over what I had...

6-11 4hrs. Completed the front and rear brake systems. Installed new SS brake lines and pads along with the rebuilt calipers and master cylinders. What worked really well was a vacuum brake system bleeder kit I bought from harbor freight for $45. I t made bleeding the brake systems a snap. The new SS brake lines are smaller in diameter. I had to find new rubber keepers (mounting clamps) at the hardware store. Installed the ground on the coil, left and right handlebar controls and new (original style hand grips). Also installed the rear view mirrors

6-1-11 4hrs Started on carbs. disasembled carbs and reed cages, and cleaned. All looked great. Hit a snag wen I went to install new boisen reeds. For some reason the new reeds are much smaller than the originals, but they do fit with the provied adaptor. Will email boisen to ask for input.

6-1-11 8hrs Primed and painted pipes. Installed on the bike. all went well except for the rear mounts. Some frame modifications will need to be done to accepted the rear brackets. Fixed the clutch issue, basically it was the incorrect installation of the clutch mechanism on the left hand side of the bike (that's what happens when you get a bike in pieces); all is well and the clutch has much adjustment left in in. What was a big help was a rd400f parts manual I bought off eBay from a company in Australia ($30). The graphics and the related part descriptions really aided in correctly assembling the clutch mechanism.
Also fixed the kick starter by taking apart and reinstalling.
I continued assembling the rear brake system. After much conversation on the USA 2 stroke forum, I received good guidance to buy a brake vacuum bleeder kit, which I did from harbor freight ($40). I will try it this weekend.

5-21 8hrs Painted pipes, 3 coats. Started soaking the gas tank in acid (used bathroom cleaner "the works" from Walmart; recommended by the guys on USA 2 stroke forum). The inside of the tank is a mess, full of rust and varnish from old dried out gas, looks about 20 years old. Assembled more wiring and installed headlight and front blinkers. Went to install new points and condensers but had wrong parts. Torqued the head and all engine mounts. Cleaned chain and installed. Installed the clutch mechanism, cable and hand control (didn't work, need to open up clutch basket to see what is going on). Installed the kick starter, it jammed; will check when I look at the clutch. Installed new rear stainless steel brake line and the rebuilt master cylinder. Still working on the front master cylinder; having issues getting it to work. Rebuilding front hand light switch.

5-15 Finished calipers; 4 hrs. cleaned and prepared for painting, painted w coats of caliper paint. Installed new seals and stanless steel capiler pistons. on to the master cylinders and new brake lines

5-8-11 4hrs Seized Brake calipers and master cylinders. These things are a mess. Steps I took to unseize calipers
1 -soaked in a pail of wd 40 for a week
2- put the caliper under pressure in a vice to "crack them free"
3 - connected the caliper to the front master cylinder and "pumped" the calipers out
I am now waiting on the new caliper pistons and the new SS brake lines to come in. I have all the rebuild kits for the front and rear master cylinders and the front and rear calipers

4/25 Reinstalled the wiring harness from the taillight to the headlight. Found out I am missing a many parts for the headlight assembly. 3Hrs

Looked at the calipers, they seem quite rusted and seized, much like an old boat motor that had been sitting in salt water.

Ugh back to the Internet to locate used parts...

4/24 Painted and reassembled the tachometer, speedometer and indicator lights. Installed all new rubber mounts, chrome hardware and decals. Also painted and reassembled the left and right handlebar controls and installed decals. 4hrs

4-23  She's a rolling!
cleaned and retaped wiring harness, painted dash parts, installed new fuse box, installed motor mounts,  polished chain tensioners, polished and installed handle bars, installed shim on swing arm, installed rear rim with all spacers, installed new grommets on footpegs, installed foot pegs, installed kickstand and spring. 6hrs

4-22 Installed front tire. Looking more like a bike every step! Next I am going to spent some time disassembling, cleaning and painting the gauges, headlamp, and handlebar controls...

4-22 Installed the triple tree, front forks and headlight bracket on the bike. 2hrs

4-22 Polishing front forks; pic is before and after. Wire wheeled the corrosion off the surface then ran on the course buffer with black and red compounds. Finished with white compound on the fine buffing wheel. 3hrs

Finally it is starting to look like a RD! 1 hr

Engine together. 3 hrs

One Jug On